Day 9 - Travel to Florence
It is always sad to leave somewhere that we have just started to get to know, and Paris was no exception. We had one last memorable breakfast with Fred and since no other guests were there it was just the 3 of us. We found out that Fred bakes the croissants fresh each morning (and all along we thought he was buying them each day). We are going to miss those so much. Maybe we can add that to our list of things we want to learn how to make. It was so amazing to us how people from other countries know so much about the US and how we know so little about them. Fred (and others) knew not only about our government/political issues but also various scandals, pop culture, you know name it.
Fred, the B&B owner
Being the information repository that he is, Fred told us how to get to the Orly airport in Paris. We took the RER C line from Vitry Sur Siene to Orly and then took a bus from the train station to the airport. Still a bit confusing since we don't know any French but we made it there none the less.
We arrived in Florence on time and found our hostel pretty easily, although the walk was longer that we thought it would be. It was kind of hot so the walk was pretty difficult with the bags. (We just kept telling ourselves what a great workout we were getting although with all the food we ate it was probably a wash.) Once at our hostel, we immediately made our museum reservations for the Academia and Uffizi and also for a tour of Tuscany the next day. I guess with of the other details that go into planning a trip like this it completely slipped my mind to make these museum reservations ahead of time. We paid more for the tickets but on our tight schedule we had no other choice.
That evening we took the Rick Steve's walking tour of Florence, bought gelato that was amazing but super expensive (14 euro total compared with others that were about 5 euros or less). I do have to say that was my most favorite gelato of the trip and worth every cent. We wanted to find some of the great markets that Florence is known for but they were closing up as we got there so we decided to shop the next day. One of the most romantic places in Florence is on Ponte Vecchio. It is a Medieval bridge over the Arno River and has some amazing jewelry shops open during the day. In the center of the bridge you can see out on both sides and at night the view is amazing. There was a great guitar player on the bridge that was fun to listen to. He played some in Italian and also some American music. After visiting Ponte Vecchio we found an orchestra playing near the Uffizi and sat to listen. The orchestra was terrible but because of the beautiful scenery and fun people watching we stayed for a while. When do you get to sit outside, listen to music and look at beautiful statues like the ones in Florence (like Michelangelo's David to the right of the stage)?

Piazza del Signoria - main square in Florence and has beautiful statues throughout

Ponte Vecchio - you can see the shops along the outside of the bridge
View on Ponte Vecchio
Orchestra in Piazza del Signoria (David is on the right)
One of the things we love about Florence is being able to walk through the streets at night and see so many interesting things. On this particular night there was an artist doing a huge drawing on the street, a clown performing to a large crowd (although it was funny how bad he was - maybe that was the point?) and lots of foods and drinks to taste. From there, we searched for a to-go pizza place and took it to the hostel. We could climb out the window in our fifth floor room and get to a balcony. It was beautiful weather and we could still hear the hustle and bustle going on below. No one else was on the balcony so we had a romantic dinner all alone. I don't think we could have asked for a more perfect ending to this day.
Artist drawing with chalk on the street. He draws something different each night and then it gets swept away each morning when the streets get cleaned.
The clown that was funny because he was so bad!
I was hoping he would pick Bentley from the crowd.
Day 10 - Touring Florence and the Tuscan Countryside
This was our first full day in Florence but I also really wanted Bentley to experience the beauty of the countryside. We contemplated a bike tour which sounded amazing but it was a 25 mile tour (all on bike) and we were already exhausted from the travel so we opted for a bus tour where we got off at multiple stops. We took an olive oil and vineyard tour of the Chianti region. Our bus left at 9:30am and stopped at a family plantation in the beautiful Tuscan countryside that was known for their olive oil but we also had a huge brunch in an outdoor area with different meats, cheeses, breads, fruits and olive oils. The setting was beautiful and the food was great.
Bentley at the table with our new Australian friends
The next stop on our tour was Casa Sole which was a vineyard. We learned how both wine and olive oil are made as well as tried different types. The setting almost did not seem real it was so picturesque. The countryside was gorgeous and everywhere we turned that was something more beautiful. We learned the differences between types of olive oils and why extra virgin olive oil is very different from others. We toured the entire facility and had a wonderful time meeting some new people. We met some Australians who were telling us how common it is for young working adults to take a 6+ month break and travel the world. Many of them were traveling with a company where they drop you off in a city and then pick you up 3 days later. You have the flexibility to plan your trip and it is a jump-on-jump-off system. Plus, when you take this 6 month break from work, you do get paid for a portion of your time. They want to keep you from burning out!!! Sign us up for that!

Casa Sole

Beautiful buildings at Casa Sole (Bentley and I had flashbacks of cutting down vines like this at our house)

Stunning view of the scenery


Inside the winery - these are the barrels the wine is stored in
From there we made a quick stop in an ancient town called Monteriggioni that was the setting for The Gladiator. No trip would be complete without gelato so we had one quickly and browsed through the tiny town. We only had about 30 minutes in this town and believe me that was enough because the town was so tiny.

View from inside the Monteriggioni city walls looking out to the countryside
We both napped on the way back to Florence which was great so that we were recharged once we got back. When we got back, we changed into our "dressy" clothes (which is an understatement since we didn't really bring anything nice) and went to the markets. We shopped around a bit to find the best briefcase for Bentley to carry for his possible new job. (Which he did get but we didn't know at the time). This was fun and I had a great time bargaining with the different vendors. We had decided for dinner we wanted to try a place we saw the night before while walking aroung. The restaurant was called Ristorante Osteria Dei Baroncelli and the food was absolutely amazing. When we walked in it was clear that our "dressy" clothes were still leaving us under dressed. They did let us eat there but took us to a room that no one else was in. We did have a seat by the window which was nice so it didn't bother us to eat in the "people who weren't up to dress code room". We ordered beef filet stroganoff (that had an Indian flavor) and young roster, spaghetti al a Ragu and roasted potatoes. That was one of our favorite meals of the trip.
One of the many wonderful markets in Florence
After our dinner we were exhausted but decided to return to Ponte Vecchio for more sightseeing and people watching. This is a beautiful spot at night to watch the sunset. The same guy from the night before was playing his guitar and singing Hey Jude by the Beatles. This was another perfect day and a great way to spend another night in Florence.

Beautiful view looking off of Ponte Vecchio
Day 11 - Florence Museums and Castiglion FiorentinoThis day was going to be a whirl wind and we needed to get an early start to fit it all in. We had early reservations at the Accademia and then an 11am reservation at the Uffizi (thanks to our hostel) so that we could make it to Castiglion Fiorentino by early afternoon. On our way to the Uffizi we grabbed breakfast and ate it on the road. We are pros at multitasking especially when one of the things involves food!
The Accademia is much smaller than the Uffizi but houses some amazing sculptures. This was Bentley's first time to Florence so this was all new to him. It had been since the summer of 2002 for me so much of it seemed new (or I had just forgotten). The main attraction in the Accademia is Michelangelo's David which is beautiful. The sculpture was over 17 feet tall and very polished. We were not allowed to take photos but we got a good picture of the replica in Piazza del Signoria. Rick Steve's describes the Accademia and Michelangelo's David by saying "This museum houses Michelangelo’s David and powerful (unfinished) Prisoners. Eavesdrop as tour guides explain these masterpieces. More than with any other work of art, when you look into the eyes of David, you’re looking into the eyes of Renaissance man. This was a radical break with the past. Man was now a confident individual, no longer a plaything of the supernatural. And life was now more than just a preparation for what happened after you died. Hello, humanism. The Renaissance was the merging of art, science, and humanism. In a humanist vein, David is looking at the crude giant of medieval darkness and thinking, “I can take this guy.” (David was an apt mascot for a town surrounding by big bully city-states.) Back on a religious track, notice David’s large and overdeveloped right hand. This is symbolic of the hand of God that powered David to slay the giant…and enabled Florence to rise above its crude neighborhood city-states...."
Next we had a reservation for the Uffizi at 11 am but had some extra time and quickly went to the the Cathedral of Florence or better known as the Duomo. This cathedral and its unique red dome can be seen from far away and is one of the famous Florence landmarks. It was pretty on the outside with it's green and pink marble but inside did not compare to Notre Dame or Saint Chappelle in Paris because of their intricate stain glass. While we were listening to the audioguide of the cathedral, Rick Steve's mentioned that people are paid to sit inside and "sshhh" you. Sure enough, not long after being inside we were "sshhed". That made us laugh a bit and were quickly "sshhed" again!

The Duomo

Duomo Bell Tower

The namesake - its dome

Beautiful ceiling inside the dome
For the Uffizi, we had a Rick Steve's audio guide to give us the highlights. We followed the guide to see the most important pieces and use our time efficiently. Just like we experienced in Paris, exhibits do get moved and that requires a little extra effort to follow the guide but overall they are extremely helpful. We saw Botticelli, Michelangelo, Rafael, da Vinci but many were out for restoration (this seemed to be a comical theme to our trip).
After our morning of museum tours, we were moving on to the travel portion of the day. We walked quickly to the train station, grabbed lunch to eat on the train and headed for Castiglion Fiorentino and Santa Chiara (where Lisette studied abroad while at A&M). Once there we walked up the hills to the center only to find it was closed. This would be our luck since Bentley's school in Lancaster had also been closed. We were in Castiglion Fiorentino on 9/11 so most of the students were away at a memorial. We looked through the windows, walked around the center and saw someone sitting in a room and asked him if we could come in and walk around. He graciously met us at the front door and let is in. I showed Bentley around and pointed out my old room, classroom, dining room and courtyard. Since most of the students were away no one was around. This was both a little creepy (because it is an old monastery and so quiet) and fun to be able to roam without anyone wondering what we were doing.

The street entrance heading towards Santa Chiara

Entrance to Santa Chiara
After showing Bentley around Santa Chiara we walked around the beautiful town (which if you have seen Under the Tuscan Sun you can imagine the city) and up some very steep hills. I had warned Bentley about the steep hills but I think he was pretty suprised once he walked them. It took me some time to remember how to get places in town (although it is small). We went to the main square, and Cafe Roggi (a favorite of mine when I studied there before) but were not able to eat there because they opened too late. We did play pin ball (one of Bentley's favorite games and did agree to own a pin ball machine in our home one day) at Cafe Roggi even though we could not eat there. Many European towns (especially the smaller ones) take advantage of siesta time. I like taking a siesta but it can cut into my traveling!! Finally we ended the night at Regerrios back in the square and had their amazing pizza and pasta. I do have to saw that I am so glad both Bentley and I studied abroad while in college. I think it was the best decision we made while in school.

The amazing scenery of Castiglion Fiorentino

One of the very narrow streets in the city

Main town square with some of my favorite hangouts. We ate dinner under the arches on the right side of the sqare looking over the valley.


The mini market I shopped in while living there. Not many choices!
Earlier that day when we arrived in Castiglion Fiorentino we saw a sign saying there was a train strike beginning that night and decided to take an early train back just to be safe. We literally ran to the train station just to be sure we were there on time since dinner took a bit longer than expected. If we hadn't caught the train we would have had to spend the night in Castiglion Fiorentino without any of our things or a reservation (which when I was planning our trip I could not get a reservation in town and is why we had to get back to Florence for the night). We did not get gelato but did go by Coco Palm (another one of my favorite hangouts) during our run down to the train station. There was no one on the train so we were able to sit in first class on the ride home. Our train arrived back in Florence about 10pm. The last thing on our agenda for the night was to do our final loads of laundry for the trip and to get some sleep. Goodbye Florence, hello Pisa and Cinque Terre!